El Camino : Cee

The weather gods were with me today. I’ve been watching a huge rain mass just offshore in the Atlantic edge its way onto land all week long; today it was time for it to come ashore, with its gusty winds and hours of rain. Last night, when I went to bed, the rain was supposed to start mid-morning. I’m guessing it stayed up too late drinking wine with its friends, because it didn’t arrive in earnest until after I was safely done with today’s hike, shortly before 1. It threatened to rain, I could see rain in the hills all around me, I got spit on a few times, but I mostly stayed dry.

A couple hours into today’s walk, I was passed by one of the energetic young people making the pilgrimage. Shortly after she passed by, she let out a whoop of joy, and jumped a good two feet into the air (pack and all), clicking her heels on the way down. I smiled for her. Clearly, whatever it was, it was good news. But then I saw something drop from her pocket as she landed. It looked like a bit of trash, and when I got to that spot a minute later, I bent down to pick it up. No trash, it was her charger cord.  “Senorita!”, I called after her. She turned around at my shout, and I held the cord high where she could see it. She hurried back to me, then stopped to share a moment of her story. She had just gotten news that she’d passed a big do-or-die test for her future life’s path. She hadn’t believed she’d ever be able to get over the hurdle. We shared a brief hug, I laughed as she tried to apologize for her tears of joy, and she paused to gather herself. As she made sure she’d zipped up her pockets, I hobbled on down the path.

Sophia caught up with me again, just a short time later - there was a statue of some sort of monster off to our left. I gestured to it and said, “There it is - the monster you have overcome! Do you want a picture of yourself with it?” She laughed, and said, “No need. I have won, and will leave it in my dust.” 

And off she flew down the path - I am not sure her feet even touched the ground.

My feet, on the other hand…. Because of the impending rain, I didn’t stop to rest the poor things as I walked. Turns out that piece of my usual routine was an important part of not developing new blisters, and by the time I arrived here in Cee, I’d acquired a few new ones. Which means my dwindling supply of moleskin would not be enough to keep me on the road for the next couple of days.

I hobbled into a nearby pharmacy, where the kind pharmacist helped me to find some bandages that will work to get me down the home stretch. She advised that I wear only sandals until the sores heal; I promised I would, after two more days. Her rueful returned grin told me I was not the first to make this promise to her.

This afternoon, I have been good, and have been resting my toes. The rain outside my window helps; it removes the temptation to walk around exploring this adorable fishing town. The rain is supposed to clear up for tomorrow’s final long trek. I’ve almost made it to the end of the world!

Photos: the promise of a rainbow to start my day; the ocean!; the village of Cee, where I am staying tonight