Sunday, September 10, 2023

El Camino : Arzua

Today’s Camino lesson is that not all kilometers are created equal.

I didn’t walk as far today as I did yesterday, but it took more out of me because it was up a hill, down a hill, repeat, all day long. I’m pretty tired.

That said, I survived the hike in decent shape, except for my calves; they’re pretty tight long about now. Here’s hoping my yoga therapy balls work their magic, because otherwise tomorrow will be a slow slog.

I still, when I finish my breakfast each morning, linger for just a bit, waiting for a general boarding call, I guess. But no, people just gather their gear and leave whenever. Weird!

Yesterday, I didn’t run into any of the people I’d already met, though the trail was crowded. This morning, as I was first headed out, I ran into my German friends from the first night, and they greeted me like a long-lost friend. Big smiles, open-armed welcome. They said they’d been wondering how I was faring. When I heard that, my heart gave a happy little sigh. *friends!*

I saw them several times along the way, until they stopped for one more coffee, and I left them behind, heart just a bit fuller than it was when I started out.

They say the people in the stores and restaurants along the trail are grateful for the foot traffic - it provides their livelihood. For the most part, I have to agree - but there are always exceptions, no?

I needed a pee break, so stopped at a little coffee bar, whose restrooms were for customers only. I was good with that, I needed a little fruit. I tried the door, but it was locked. I waited a bit, figuring it was in use, but then a lady came in behind me, and the proprietor buzzed it open for her. I looked at him, told him I did intend to order a something, but wanted to empty my bladder first.

He just glared at me, but I figured that was his problem and ducked in behind the previous customer when she came out. When I went to place my order, he took a few minutes to clean up a stack of dishes on the counter first, ignoring me. When he finally turned to me, I asked if I could buy an orange. (He was selling fresh squeezed juice.) “No”, he replied. “I sell juice, NOT fruit!” In English. I guess I’m not the first person to try to bend his rules.

To keep peace between the nations, I went ahead and ordered a juice.

Two days left to Santiago, the end point of most people’s Camino journey, the midpoint of mine. It’ll be a longer day - 18km. I think I’ve got this?  Wish me luck.

Photos: me, with one of the German women; the first church of the morning; a peaceful farm, waking up in the morning mist.








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